Whether you’re uncovering gorgeous wood grain or prepping for a smooth repaint, learning how to strip paint from a wooden internal door can feel like you’re embarking on a mission to peel back the layers of history. But when it comes to getting the best results, the key is doing it safely and carefully so you don’t gouge the wood or wreck the door (especially important for expensive fire doors). 

In this handy how-to guide, we’ll walk you through both chemical and manual paint removal methods step by step. You’ll learn about the best tools for stripping paint, what safety gear to use and we’ll offer up some expert tips to help you get the job done without damaging your door. 

We’ll also answer some common questions about paint stripping, so by the end, you’ll be ready to strip that paint off like a pro and maybe even have a little fun doing it! So, roll up your sleeves and let’s get started.

What’s covered in this article?

Why strip paint from internal doors?

There are a number of reasons why you might strip an internal door. But the biggest reason for stripping paint from an internal door is that it can dramatically improve its appearance and durability. Perhaps you have a beautiful solid timber door hidden under multiple layers of peeling paint? or you want to change the door’s finish from dated gloss to a modern stain? 

Removing old paint reveals the wood’s natural grain and allows you to apply a fresh finish or colour evenly, which you just wouldn’t be able to do when painting on top of old paint. If paint is flaking or uneven, painting over it won’t leave a smooth result. 

In the case of fire doors, you might need to strip thick paint build-up to ensure the door closes properly and the seals aren’t blocked by layers of old paint so it can operate effectively. 

With any door, just be sure to check if the old paint might contain lead (common in homes pre-1980s). If so, take proper precautions or consider leaving it encapsulated under new paint if it’s in good condition.

Making the Most of Original Features

Another reason to strip a door is when you’re restoring period features. 

Many older internal doors were painted over as trends changed over the years. Stripping them can return them to their original glory. Plus, removing old finishes gives you a clean surface for new paint or varnish that will both feed and thus protect the wood better. 

However, if the door is in very bad shape (rotting wood, deep cracks) or is a cheaper hollow-core door, you might reconsider the effort needed. Sometimes, replacing it with a new internal door is the better option. For instance, upgrading to an oak internal door might make more sense if you want a natural wood look but your current door isn’t solid wood. 

But, assuming your door is worth saving, let’s gather what you need and get to work…

Tools and Safety Gear You’ll Need

Having the right paint stripping tools and protective gear is crucial for a safe, successful job.

Before you dive into stripping paint, make sure you have all the essential tools and safety gear ready. Here’s a handy checklist of paint stripping tools for wooden doors and protective equipment:

• Protective Gear: At minimum, use chemical-resistant gloves, safety goggles and a dust mask or respirator. Stripping paint can release fumes and dust particles that you shouldn’t breathe in. If using chemical strippers, wear old long-sleeve clothing and ensure good ventilation (open windows, use a fan, strip the door outside) to avoid inhaling fumes. For heat gun work, heat-resistant gloves are wise too.
  
  
• Paint Stripper (Chemical): A good quality paint stripping solution or gel is needed if you plan to go the chemical route. These days, there are the more traditional solvent-based strippers as well as safer low-VOC or citrus-based paint removers out there. Citrus strippers (like Citristrip or PeelAway) are biodegradable and have fewer harsh fumes, though they may work a bit slower. Gel or paste strippers are ideal for vertical surfaces since they cling to the surface better, making them especially useful if you plan to strip the door frames too.
  
  
• Scrapers: A variety of paint scrapers will help remove softened paint. A wide, flat scraper (3-inch or so) is great for large flat panels, and a smaller putty knife or even a specialty contour scraper can help with moulded details. Tip: use plastic or dull-edged scrapers on wood to avoid gouging it.
  
  
• Sandpaper and Sanding Tools: You’ll need sandpaper in multiple grits (start around 80-grit for heavy paint removal, then 120-grit, and up to 180–220-grit for smoothing). An orbital sander can save time on large flat areas, while sanding blocks or pads help on edges and profiles. Sanding will be used to smooth the wood after most paint is removed and to tackle any stubborn remnants.
  
  
• Heat Gun: If you opt for the manual heat-and-scrape method, have a heat gun (a tool that blows very hot air) and an extension cord. Choose one with variable heat settings if possible. Keep a metal tray or safe heat proof surface to rest it on when not in use (never leave a hot gun face-down on anything!) and have a fire extinguisher or water bucket nearby just in case… because you can never be too careful!
  
  
• Miscellaneous Supplies: Don’t forget old drop cloths or plastic dust sheets to protect your floor (stripping is a messy job). Grab some painter’s tape to mask off areas like glass panes or to label hardware. Use old rags or steel wool for wiping off residue. A bucket of water or a vinegar-water mix can also help for cleaning and neutralising some strippers later. If your door has removable hardware (hinges, knobs, handles), a screwdriver will be needed to take those off before starting.

Do I need to remove a door from its hinges to strip the paint?

It’s highly recommended in most cases, yes. Removing the door and laying it flat makes the job easier, safer and helps you apply stripper more evenly (or use a heat gun safely without everything dripping downward). It also protects your floors and walls from splatter. That said, if you absolutely cannot remove the door (for example, if it’s a very heavy fire door), you can strip paint in place. 

How can I tell if the paint on my wooden doors contains lead?

If your house (and doors) date from before the 1980s, there’s a good chance the paint could be lead-based. Lead paint was commonly used in older homes (in the UK, it wasn’t fully banned for consumer use until 1992). Signs of lead paint include a sweetish smell when sanding (not recommended to sniff!), or the paint may come off in scaly chips with a distinctive chalky texture.

The only sure way is to test the paint. You can buy inexpensive lead test swabs from most DIY shops or online. Swab an area according to the instructions – if it turns pink or red, that indicates lead is present. 

What is the safest way to remove paint from wood?

For us, the safest method to remove paint from wood – in terms of preserving the wood and protecting yourself – is to use a chemical paint stripper and gentle scraping. Chemical stripping keeps the wood wet so you’re less likely to gouge it and it avoids the high heat that could scorch the wood. 

Always work in a well-ventilated area (outdoors or with windows open) when using strippers or sanding. If the paint dates back to the 1980s or earlier, always assume it could contain lead even if you don’t test it – in which case, it’s best to avoid dry sanding or high heat as this can create toxic dust and fumes. 

Instead, use a chemical paint remover that keeps the paint wet (some products are designed specifically to safely encapsulate lead paint). Wear a respirator rated for lead paint or fine particles (P3 rated in the UK) if sanding old paint, and meticulously clean up chips and dust afterwards, using a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter. By preparing your workspace and gear properly, you’ll set yourself up for a safe and successful project.

That said, let’s walk through each method so you can make a fully informed choice on which might work best for you…

Stripping Paint From Wooden Doors: A Step-By-Step Guide

There are three methods typically used for removing paint from doors, here we’ll guide you through all three, to help you get the best results regardless of how you decide to tackle it.

Method 1: Chemical Paint Removal (Using Paint Stripper)

One of the most popular ways to strip paint from an internal door is to use a chemical paint stripper. This method is effective and tends to be gentler on the wood’s surface (as long as you use a wood-safe product) because the chemicals do the heavy lifting of loosening the paint. 

It’s especially useful for doors with intricate panels or mouldings, and for situations where you want to minimise dust (for example, if lead paint is present, chemical stripping will keep it wet and contained). Here’s how to remove paint from a door using the chemical method without causing damage:

• Step 1: Prepare the door. Take the door off its hinges and lay it flat if possible, this makes the job easier and prevents drips. (If you prefer not to remove it, you can strip paint vertically, but be ready for more mess and effort.)
  
  Place the door on sawhorses or across a stable table, and put a drop cloth or dust sheet underneath to catch drips and scrapings. Remove all hardware like knobs, latch plates and hinges if you plan to refinish those separately.
  
  Clean off any surface dirt so it doesn’t interfere with the stripper. Finally, ensure you’re wearing your PPE (gloves, goggles etc) and that the area is well ventilated.
  
  
• Step 2: Apply the paint stripper. Follow your product’s instructions, but generally you’ll brush on a thick, even coat of the paint stripper across the door’s surface.
  Use a disposable or cheap paintbrush (chemical strippers can ruin nice brushes) or an old rag if appropriate. Coat carved details and mouldings thoroughly – you may need to dab extra into crevices.
  
  Many strippers work best if you give them time so check the recommended dwell time (it could be anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours).
  
  Work in sections if the door is large, or apply to one whole side at a time.
  
  Pro tip: Keep it wet. A great trick is to cover the applied stripper with cling film or a sheet of plastic. This prevents the stripper from drying out too quickly and keeps it active longer, especially for thick paint layers. You’ll start to see the paint bubble, wrinkle, or soften as the chemicals break the bond.
  
  
• Step 3: Scrape off the paint. Once the stripper has done its magic (test a small area with a scraper – the paint should lift off easily), it’s time for the satisfying part! Use your scrapers to gently remove the softened paint.
  
  Hold the scraper at a low angle to avoid gouging the wood and push in the direction of the wood grain. The paint should come off in goopy sheets or ribbons. Wipe the gunk off the scraper onto old newspapers or into a rubbish bag as you go. Start with the flat areas (panels, stiles, rails) using a wide scraper. Then tackle grooves, trim or moulded areas with a smaller tool, you might even find an old toothbrush or a plastic scraper that fits the profile is useful here.
  
  Stubborn spots can be re-coated with stripper for a second pass if needed, it’s quite common that thick or multi-layer paint won’t all come off in one go. Don’t force off paint that’s still clinging hard – rather, apply more stripper on those bits and be patient.
  
  
• Step 4: Repeat if necessary. Most likely, you’ll need at least a couple of rounds of stripping to get all the paint off, especially if the door had multiple coats or old, hardened paint. Focus on any remaining patches larger than a coin, as tiny specks can be sanded later.
  
  Apply fresh stripper on residual paint, wait again, and scrape. Each cycle should remove a bit more. Take care around edges and corners, these may require a detail scraper or careful use of steel wool dipped in stripper. Always keep the area wet with paint stripper while working; if it dries, reapply rather than scrubbing at it.
  
  
• Step 5: Clean and neutralise. Once the bulk of the paint is gone, you need to clean off the stripper residue so it doesn’t keep eating into the wood or interfere with your new finish.
  
  Different products have different cleanup steps. Some are water-based strippers that can be neutralised with water, while others might need mineral spirits. Check your product instructions. A common approach is to wipe the entire door down with a rag soaked in mineral spirits to remove lingering chemical and paint traces.
  
  Then, many people do a final wash with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution to neutralise any caustic stripper (especially if it was a highly alkaline type). Sponging a vinegar-water mix over the door to neutralise remaining chemicals will protect the porous wood from damage.
  
  Finally, rinse with clean water and let the door dry completely, give it a good 24 hours to be safe. This drying period is incredibly important, wood can hold moisture from the stripping process that could affect your new paint or finish if you move too fast.
  
  
• Step 6: Final Sanding. Even with chemical stripping, there may be a few tiny paint flecks left, and the wood grain will be a bit raised or rough. Once the door is dry, give it a light sanding over the entire surface.
  
  Start with a medium grit (~120) to take off any remaining specks of paint and smooth out any fuzzy grain. Then, graduate to a finer grit (180–220) so the wood is perfectly smooth to the touch. This also preps the surface for refinishing. Be gentle though, you’re not trying to remove material, just polish the wood.
  
  If the door has a veneer, be extra cautious not to sand through it. After sanding, vacuum or wipe away all dust. Your door should now be down to bare, clean wood.
  

The chemical method, while a bit messy, is very effective and helps minimise the risk of scratching or scorching the door. Modern “safe” strippers have made this process much more user-friendly and some products can even remove multiple layers in one application. 

As we’ve previously mentioned, the added bonus of chemical stripping is that it keeps lead paint wet, preventing dust – meaning it’s the safest way to remove lead-based paint at home. Just remember to dispose of the paint sludge responsibly (it’s considered hazardous waste if it contains lead or strong chemicals). With the paint gone, you’re ready for the next steps of restoration!

Does vinegar remove paint from wood?

Plain white vinegar can soften paint a little, but it’s not a magic paint remover – at least not for fully stripping a door. Vinegar is sometimes used as a mild, eco-friendly aid: for instance, heating some vinegar and water and scrubbing can help loosen water-based paint or clean residue. It’s true that vinegar is inexpensive and environment-friendly, but it’s not as strong as commercial strippers.

Vinegar is acidic and using it on bare, unsealed wood can potentially cause the wood to swell if over-soaked. So if you use vinegar, do so for a specific small job like removing paint splatters or as part of the cleaning step after using a chemical stripper. For stripping an entire door, vinegar alone probably won’t give satisfying results unless the paint is practically falling off to begin with. 

Method 2: Manual Paint Removal with a Heat Gun

If you’d rather avoid chemicals, another route is the heat gun method. Essentially, you’ll be using heat to soften the paint and then scraping it off. This can be quicker for some projects and avoids chemical fumes, but you must use caution, heat guns operate at several hundred degrees and can cause fires if misused or even scorch your wood if held too close. That said, many confident DIYers successfully strip doors with a heat gun.

Here’s how to do it safely without damaging your door (or the rest of your home):

• Step 1: Set up safely. As with chemical stripping, remove or protect any hardware and lay the door flat on sawhorses if you can. Make sure there are no flammable materials nearby – be sure to keep paper, sawdust and solvents far away from your work area as these can ignite and cause an uncontrollable fire extremely quickly.
  
  Wear heavy-duty heat proof gloves (the gun and the metal scraper will get very hot) and eye protection. It’s smart to have a drop cloth to catch paint chips and a fire extinguisher or water source nearby, just in case. Work in a ventilated area because heating paint, especially old paint, can release toxic vapours.
  
  
• Step 2: Heat a small section. Turn on the heat gun to a medium or high setting (for most paints, 450-500°C heat works, but you can start lower and adjust). Hold the gun about 5–8 cm (2–3 inches) away from the paint surface.
  
  Keep it moving in a back-and-forth motion over a small area, roughly 4-6 inches square. Do not hold the heat gun in one spot for too long, think of it like using a hairdryer or iron, constantly moving, so you warm the paint evenly without burning anything.
  
  Besides fire risk, prolonged heat can cause certain fire door cores or veneers to delaminate. After a few seconds, you’ll see the paint begin to blister or bubble slightly. That’s your cue that it’s softening.
  
  
• Step 3: Scrape the paint off. The moment the paint softens and blisters, put the heat gun aside (or have a buddy handle the gun) and quickly use your scraper to peel off that section of paint.
  
  It should come off fairly easily while warm, often in strips. Work with the grain of the wood and try to “push” the paint off rather than digging in. If you hit a stubborn bit, you can reheat it briefly and scrape again.
  
  One of the best methods is to do a sort of one-two rhythm: heat-gun in one hand, scraper in the other, heating just ahead of where they’re scraping. Always keep the gun moving and at a slight distance to avoid charring the wood. And remember, the metal scraper will get hot from the paint, don’t touch the scraper part without protective gloves.
  
  
• Step 4: Continue section by section. Work your way across the door in manageable sections. It’s usually best to do all the flat areas first. For example, move along a rail or panel, heating and scraping as you go. Large flat areas are where the heat gun shines (literally and figuratively) – you can strip them relatively fast.
  
  However, be very careful on delicate details or edges: heat guns can easily singe thin edges or dried-out wood. In fact, if your door has intricate carved mouldings, a heat gun isn’t recommended for those spots. You might be better off using a chemical stripper or just sand those bits later instead of risking burning them and causing permanent damage.
  
  As you remove paint, the old paint scrapings will fall, cooling quickly into chips. Regularly sweep or vacuum these so they don’t get trampled and smeared around.
  
  
• Step 5: Prevent damage: It’s worth noting some additional caution for fire doors here. If you’re stripping paint from a fire-rated internal door, be mindful not to damage any intumescent strips (the fire seals along the edges) with the heat gun.
  
  It’s best to temporarily remove any surface-mounted seal strips before applying heat near those areas, as the heat could trigger or ruin them. Keep the heat gun on the door’s surface itself, not the edges, and don’t overheat any single spot on a fire door to protect its internal structure.
  
  For any regular wooden door, a slight scorch on the wood looks like a brown or char spot – if you see that, you’re holding the heat too close or too long. Adjust your technique to keep the wood just warm enough to release paint.
  
  Heat guns can definitely strip paint, but they require your full attention – never leave one unattended, and always turn it off and unplug it when you’re done or taking a break.
  
  
• Step 6: Cleanup and sand. After using the heat gun, you’ll likely have a few patches of residue left. Heat often doesn’t get every last speck, especially in deeper wood grain or corners.
  
  Once the door cools down, take some medium-grit sandpaper (80–120 grit) and sand off the remaining paint traces and smooth the surface. Because the heat method avoids chemical residue, you generally don’t need to wash the wood (there’s nothing to neutralise).
  
  That said, it’s still a good idea to wipe the door with mineral spirits or a gentle wood cleaner to pick up any oils or soot from heating. Then do a final fine sanding (180+ grit) to prep the surface. Dispose of the paint chips responsibly – note that these chips can contain lead if the paint was old, so treat them with care (seal in a bag for hazardous waste if applicable).
  

The heat gun method can be a bit of a workout, but many find it satisfying. Just remember the two golden rules: keep the gun moving and don’t overheat. When done properly, a heat gun will soften paint so it scrapes off like butter without scorching the wood underneath.

However, if you find yourself struggling and spending hours on a small area, or if the paint is very stubborn, don’t hesitate to take a break and then switch tactics – sometimes a combination of methods (heat to get the big stuff off, then chemical for the leftover bits) is the most efficient way.

Method 3: Sanding the Paint Off (Mechanical Removal)

The third approach is good old-fashioned elbow grease: sanding off the paint. This method can be effective for removing paint from a door, but it’s generally best for relatively thin or small areas of paint, or as a follow-up to the above methods. 

Trying to sand through multiple thick layers of paint on a whole door can be very time-consuming and can chew through a lot of sandpaper. It also carries the risk of scratching the wood if done aggressively. That said, sanding has its place in paint stripping, and here’s how to do it while keeping the door intact:

• Step 1: Remove door and hardware (if not already). As with the other methods, you’ll want the door off its frame and laid flat if possible. Take off hinges, knobs, etc., or tape over anything you couldn’t remove to protect it from sandpaper scuffs.
  
  Ensure you have a drop cloth under the door to catch dust, and definitely wear a proper dust mask or respirator – sanding paint produces lots of fine dust, which is harmful to breathe (especially if it’s old lead-based paint).
  
  
• Step 2: Start with coarse grit sandpaper. Use a coarse sandpaper like 80-grit to begin stripping the bulk of the paint. If you have an electric orbital sander, this is the time to use it as it will vastly speed up flat-surface sanding.
  
  Begin sanding a corner or an inconspicuous area to see how easily the paint comes off. Apply light to moderate pressure, let the sandpaper do the work. You should see the paint turning to dust and the wood starting to peek through. Move the sander in the direction of the wood grain as much as possible to avoid cross-grain scratches.
  
  For edges and bevels that the round orbital sander can’t reach, you can use a handheld sanding block or a detail sander attachment if you have one.
  
  
• Step 3: Work evenly and watch out for over-sanding. Sand the entire surface evenly with the coarse grit, rather than trying to sand one spot all the way down before moving on. This prevents you from accidentally creating low spots or grooves in one area.
  
  Be very cautious on veneered doors. Heavy sanding can go right through the veneer to the substrate, which will permanently damage the door. If your internal door is veneered (common for many modern flush or panel doors), you may be better off only sanding lightly to de-gloss and then use a chemical stripper for full paint removal to save the wood surface.
  
  Also, corners and edges of doors sand down faster, so maybe use a bit more care or a finer grit on those sections after an initial pass.
  
  
• Step 4: Progress to medium and fine grits. Once you’ve removed the majority of paint with 80-grit, you’ll likely still see patches of paint in wood grain or a thin film of the old colour. Now’s the time to switch to a 120-grit sandpaper. This will continue removing remaining paint but in a slightly gentler way, and it will start smoothing out the rough scratches from the 80-grit.
  
  Sand the whole door again with the 120 (or similar grit) paper. By now you should have almost no paint left, just perhaps some in deep grain pores or tight corners. Finally, take a 180- or 220-grit paper and give the door one more sanding pass. This fine sanding is to achieve a smooth surface ready for refinishing, not so much about paint removal. After this, the door should feel smooth and look uniformly bare or wood-coloured.
  
  
• Step 5: Detail sanding for crevices. If your door has panel mouldings, grooves or trim that the sander couldn’t fully reach, you have a few options. You can fold a piece of sandpaper and hand sand those areas. Alternatively, a sanding sponge or wire wool can conform to shapes a bit better.
  
  For very detailed profiles, you might even use a scraping tool gently or consider a chemical stripper just for those parts rather than risk scratching them up. In some cases, an oscillating multi-tool with a detail sanding attachment can do the trick.
  
  Take care not to blunt details by over-sanding; often just a light scuff will do if a tiny bit of paint remains in an inside corner (it might be negligible or will be covered by new paint anyway).
  
  
• Step 6: Clean up the dust. Sanding creates a ton of dust. Once you’re satisfied that the door is paint-free and smooth, thoroughly clean the surface. Vacuum the door (use a brush attachment) and the surrounding area to pick up dust.
  
  Then, wipe the door down with a tack cloth or a damp rag to remove every fine particle. Any leftover dust can interfere with painting or finishing later. If there was lead in the paint, carefully collect and dispose of the sanding dust (treat it as hazardous waste, do not simply blow it around). Clean your tools and wash out your work clothes to avoid moving the paint dust around the rest of your home.
  
  

Sanding is undeniably labour-intensive, but it guarantees you’re down to fresh wood and it preps the surface at the same time. Just be patient and change out your sandpaper when it clogs with paint (you’ll go through a lot of sheets). Also, keep in mind that pure sanding is best suited for relatively flat doors or when the paint layer is pretty thin.

If you find yourself burning through sandpaper and barely denting the many layers of paint, that’s a sign to pause and perhaps use a chemical stripper or heat gun instead. Often, a combined approach works best. Mixing methods is perfectly fine, do whatever achieves a clean, undamaged result.

After Stripping: Cleaning Up and Refinishing

Congratulations! If you’ve made it this far, your internal door should now be free of its old paint! You’ve done the hard part, but before you put that door back up, there are a few important final steps to ensure the door looks great and lasts for years to come…

• Final cleaning: No matter which stripping method you used, give the door a last thorough cleaning. If you used chemicals, you should have already neutralised and rinsed, but double-check there’s no waxy or oily residue (run a hand over the wood – it should feel clean, not slimy). If you used sanding or heat, vacuum and wipe the door to remove all dust or tiny debris. Any leftover dust or chemicals can interfere with the new finish.
  
  
• Inspect for damage: Look over the door for any accidental nicks, scratches or dings that might have happened. Small gouges can be patched with wood filler and sanded smooth, but if you took care while stripping, the door should be intact. Check that joints haven’t loosened (if so, add a bit of wood glue and clamp if necessary). Ensure the door is dry and sound.
  
  
• Refinishing time: Now comes the rewarding part – applying a new finish. Depending on your goal, you might paint the door in a fresh color, or you might want to showcase the natural wood with a stain or clear finish. If painting, apply a primer first (especially if going from bare wood to paint) for the best results.
  
  Two coats of a good quality interior door paint will give a smooth, durable finish. If you’re going for a natural look, consider staining the door to bring out the grain, then sealing it with a clear door oil. A hardwax door oil is a great option for interior doors as it penetrates the wood, brings out the colour and grain, and provides protection.
  
  Tip: Before painting or sealing, lightly tack-cloth the surface one more time and ensure you’re in a dust-free environment.
  
  
• Reattach hardware: Once the finish is fully dry, it’s time to put hinges, knobs, and other hardware back on. This is a good opportunity to upgrade your door hardware if you’ve been eyeing new door handles or hinges – a freshly stripped and refinished door with shiny new hinges and knobs can look truly brand new.
  
  When reinstalling, be careful not to scratch your new paint/finish. Maybe have a friend hold the door or use support blocks to get it in place without scraping the floor.
  
  
• Adjust and enjoy: Rehang the door and test its swing and latch. Sometimes adding layers of finish can very slightly alter how a door fits (though less so compared to thick paint). If it’s sticking a little, you can adjust the hinges or lightly sand a tight edge (hopefully you won’t need to). With the door back up, step back and admire the transformation – from a tired painted door to a revitalised piece of woodwork!

Expert Tips to Help Avoid Damage

Before we wrap up, here’s a roundup of pro tips and cautions to ensure you strip paint from your door without any unintended damage:

• Do a patch test: Different doors and paints will react differently. Test your chosen method on a small, hidden area of the door first (like the bottom edge) to make sure it works as expected. For chemical strippers, this will tell you how long to leave it on for and whether it might harm the wood or veneer. It’s better to discover issues on a tiny spot than on the middle of the door!
  
  
• Keep tools dull (for wood): It sounds counterintuitive, but using an overly sharp metal scraper can dig into wood fast. If your scraper has razor-sharp corners, file them slightly round. Or use plastic scrapers on soft wood. A flexible spatula-style scraper can also help glide along the surface without gouging.
  
  
• Work with the wood: Always scrape and sand with the grain, not against it. Going across grain can leave scratches that are hard to remove and very visible after refinishing. Likewise, when using steel wool or scrub pads for fine detail cleaning, rub with the grain direction.
  
  
• Control your heat: We said it before but it’s worth repeating – if using a heat gun, never scorch the wood. A scorched piece of wood will turn dark and can only be fixed by sanding it out (which may not be possible if it’s deep). Keep that gun moving and at a safe distance. If you see smoke or darkening wood, stop immediately.
  
  
• Ventilate and take breaks: Stripping paint is not a quick job (often it’s an all-day or multi-day affair). Don’t try to rush it by putting the heat gun on max or using extra paint stripper thinking the process will go faster – you’ll just risk damage. Instead, work methodically and take breaks to let fumes clear and to rest your arms. Open doors and windows, or even work outside if weather permits (many people prefer stripping doors in the garden or garage).
  
  
• Dispose of waste safely: You’ll end up with gummy paint shavings or dust that shouldn’t just go in your regular bin or down the drain. Especially if there’s any chance of lead, seal the waste in a sturdy bag or bucket. Check your local regulations for disposing of chemical stripper waste – you may need to take it to a hazardous materials drop-off. It’s a small hassle for the health of you and the environment.
  
  
• Consider professional dip stripping: If you have multiple doors or very ornate doors to strip, and you’re not on a tight budget, there are professional services that dip-strip doors in a caustic bath. They dunk the door in a tank that strips off paint entirely. It can be pricey (It’s not unusual to be quoted over £200+ per door), and it can sometimes raise the wood grain or require repairs, but it’s an option if you’re overwhelmed. However, for most DIYers, doing it yourself with the above methods will be far more economical and rewarding.
  
  
• Know when to stop sanding: If you choose to refinish the door with paint again, you don’t actually have to remove every last speck of old paint – you just need a smooth, sound surface. It’s okay if tiny bits of old paint remain in deep pores or crevices when repainting, as long as they’re well-adhered and smooth. So don’t drive yourself crazy trying to sand down one stubborn speck and risk damaging the surrounding wood. Primer and paint can hide a multitude of sins. On the other hand, if you are clear-finishing (staining or oiling) the door, you’ll want all paint removed for a uniform look, and might need to spend more time on detail stripping.
  
  

Transforming Your Home One Door at a Time

And there we have it! We hope that by following our paint stripping tips and the methods above, you’re able to minimise any chance of harming your door. In fact, many people find that by the end of the project they’ve developed a real knack for it – and their last door looks better than the first. That’s okay! Each door is a learning process. 

And the best part? After stripping and refinishing, maintenance is easy. 

Keep the door clean with gentle cleaners (no harsh scrubbing on your new finish) and it should be years before you need to do more than the occasional touch-up. 

Stripping a door is definitely a labour of love, but the payoff is a stunning internal door that looks great and adds character to your home. Plus, you’ve preserved the door rather than sending it to landfill – a win for sustainability! Woop!